From vegetable dyeing to visual masterpieces

A careful process of artistry and skill

When using the term vegetable dye, I think for many of us it conjures up a picture something akin to the witches of Macbeth, an enchantment that transforms the pure new wool. Indeed, there may be some truth in the ‘hubble bubble, toil and trouble’, as the process is very labour-intensive; the wool is washed and cleaned, then placed in cauldron-like pots, usually over charcoal fires, with mordants and/or vegetable dyes. The whole process may appear haphazard, but the reality is quite different. This ancient process is an art and the skill is in the preparation.

Stunning natural colour palettes for our Seljuk collection

The natural colours most used in our Seljuk collection tend to be: 

• Madder Red

• Indigo Blue

• Weld / Pomegranate yellow 

• Overdyed Greens

• Walnut Browns

• Undyed Natural wool cream and soft beiges and brown.

These colours are also found in vintage and antique Persian, Afghan, and Central Asian rugs.

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Incorporating Mordants to ensure longevity

The initial preparation stage using Mordants is complex but central to the whole process. For those of you who like extra detail, you can learn more here.

In summary, mordants are often used before dyeing to fix the dyes and set the colours. These mordants are used to produce the exciting and perhaps unexpected colours you will find in this collection.

• Alum (phitkari) to brighten colours.

• Iron (zang) to darken and intensify colours

• Copper to deepen tones, which must be used before dyeing except when using Indigo and Walnut.

Before dyeing colours in natural dye stuffs, the wool is scoured (washed) first in very soft water. The pots used must be non-reactive, so steel or enamel is essential, and each batch is tested before a full batch is produced.

Vibrant colour palettes from natural ingredients

To produce the fabulous natural dyes, the main ingredients used is as follows: -

• Turmeric (halda) makes a beautiful bright yellow. Anyone who makes a curry will be well aware of the power of turmeric, especially if spilt, although in the finished dye it is not very lightfast, so it has to be fixed very well.

• Weld (Reseda) a clear strong yellow (used in ancient Europe & Asia)

• Onion Skins for a golden yellow to orange.

• Pomegranate Rind (anar ka chilka) soft yellow to khaki

• Madder (lighter extraction) orange

• Madder (full extraction) red

• Iron + Tannin (like pomegranate and oak galls) gives black/grey colour

• Logwood deep purple or black

• Walnut Husks rich brown

• Tea/Coffee soft browns

• Oak Bark/Acorns tan to brown

Pure plant green dyes are very difficult and rare, so layering is the traditional technique used.

1. Overdyeing yellow & indigo

2. Weld & indigo bright green

3. Pomegranate & indigo olive green

The only true blue is Indigo (neel), which is light blue to very deep navy it does not require a mordant, although a special vat process is needed

I still like the visualisation of the three witches in Macbeth and hope when you next look at your handmade rug you don’t see hubble, bubble, toil or trouble, just the true artistry of generations.